Nom Chomsky

Killing two birds with one giant, bony fish

I’ve been interested in the potential of the Asian Carp, an invasive fish species that can grow up to 100 pounds and tastes something like tilapia, for sometime. It has spread up the Mississippi River and, if electric migration deterrents fail, could enter the great lakes and decimate local populations of delicious walleye, as well as the livelihood of thousands of freshwater fisherman.

However, despite haute cuisine-level tastings, huge economic potential, and millions of hungry Americans, people are still having trouble making getting this potential windfall into our foodways. The name and associations are a probleml, but one easily remedied: no one wants to cook with rapeseed oil, but people feel fine about sauteing in canola; and the Patagonian Toothfish now has to be protected from overfishing under the moniker of the Chilean Sea Bass. Establishing the processing and distribution systems is another issue: the fish was dropped in canned form to support the Haitian disaster recovery, but American fish processors aren’t keen on filleting the bony beasts and food banks don’t foresee a market for minced chunks of anything, much less a fish most people consider bycatch.

The distinction seems particularly meaningless these days: humble European dishes like Spanish boquerones have come into fashion along with their more formal menu peers; and American chefs are unlocking the potential in creatures like monkfish, an ugly, oily thing that, 20 years ago, was considered a garbage fish suitable only for bait, but has come to be considered such a savory delicacy that even its liver is prized by chefs, nationwide.

So when will the carp be making its big splash? Would you be opposed to eating it?